Weave/Chainmaille Families | Metal Used | Gauge & Sizing Info
European
The European family consists of the weaves that were traditionally used for armour and jewelry all across Europe and the Middle East and the modern variations of that style of maille. European weaves typically have a grain that only runs in one direction and two Pendants of rings that lie in opposite planes.
Japanese
The Japanese family consists of the weaves that were used traditionally in Japan for armour and the modern variations of that style of maille. Japanese weaves are characterized by the use of 90 degree ring connections, with horizontal rings joined by vertical "connector" rings.
Persian
The persian family is based on a "stacked" ring orientation. The name is misleading, as there is no historical evidence to support the use of these weaves in Persia at any time in history. Most of these weaves are modern creations and none were used in period as armour. Most persian weaves have both left and right handed versions. The construction of persian weaves is very similar to European weaves except that in persian weaves the rings become stacked and form pairs, resulting in a different grain and a thicker, tighter weave.
Unit
Weaves that do not expand naturally in any direction. There is debate as to whether these are actually weaves, as opposed to simply ring combinations, but they are unique, and can be quite beautiful.
Hybrid
The hybrid category is not a family at all, rather it is a place for weaves that don't fit into any of the families. Weaves that combine techniques from more than one family or are totally undefineable are listed here.
Orbital/Captive
Weaves that are primarily differentiated by the use of rings that "orbit" other rings, or are trapped within them.
Spiral
The spiral family is composed entirely of weaves where the rings are linked in a helical fashion. Many spiral weaves were used historically in various parts of the world as jewelry. All spiral weaves have left and right handed versions.
Brass, Cartridge (Y)
(alloy C260 - 70% copper, 30% zinc)
A yellow metal that is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. It tarnishes and without care it will turn a dark yellow. Brass can be cleaned with any commercially available brass cleaner; like Brasso.
Brass, Jeweler's (J)
(alloy C226 - 87.5% copper, 12.5% zinc)
A gold colored metal that is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. It is not as yellow as yellow brass - the hue is closer to untarnished bronze. Strength and corrosion properties are similar to yellow brass - jeweler's brass is about 8% stronger and costs a bit more. Brass can be cleaned with any commercially available brass cleaner; like Brasso.
Bronze (B)
(alloy C510 phosphor bronze - 95% copper, 5% tin)
A shiny, dark copper colored metal that is an alloy of copper and tin. It tarnishes and will turn the color of a bronze sculpture or old penny over time. It has slightly more corrosion resistance than brass. Bronze can be cleaned with any commercially available brass cleaner; like Brasso.
Copper (C)
(100% copper)
A reddish colored metal that corrodes quite easily. It starts the color of a shiny new penny and can either darken or turn depending on how it is used.
Steel, Stainless (S)
(alloy 304)
A metal that doesn't rust, is strong and clean. Stainless steel is the best balance of material properties and price.
About Gauge Sizes
"g" is an abreviation for Gauge. Gauge is thickness of the wire used for that paticular piece. The higher the gauge number the thinner the metal. For example 18g metal is thicker than 22g. See below for gauge charts. All pieces are made from 18g, 20g & 22g wire.
Bracelet
Below is a list of recomended sizes for bracelets to help you choose the right size.
- 5" Small children's
- 6" Large children's or small women's
- 7" Woman's average
- 8" Men's or large women's
- 9" Large Men's
Necklace
Below is a list of recomended sizes for necklaces to help you choose the right size.
- 16" Choker length
- 17-18" Collarbone
- 20" Below collarbone
- 22" At or above neckline
- 24" Below neckline
- 30" Below the chest
